BONJOUR,
I'M RICK STEVES,
BACK WITH MORE
OF THE BEST OF EUROPE.
THIS TIME, IT'S YACHTS,
CASINOS, AND FANCY VILLAS.
FUN IN THE SUN
ON THE FRENCH RIVIERA.
THANKS FOR JOINING US.
IN EUROPE IS HERE
ON THE COTE d'AZUR,
OR THE FRENCH RIVIERA.
AND AFTER SOAKING UP MORE THAN
OUR SHARE OF SUN, WE'LL SEE
HOW THIS GLITTERING STRETCH
OF FRANCE'S MEDITERRANEAN COAST
OFFERS MORE THAN JUST
A FIRST-CLASS BEACH BREAK.
  BUT DON'T GET ME WRONG.
  WE WILL ENJOY THE BEACH,
 FROM HIGH-END RESORTS
  TO HIDDEN JEWELS
 OF THE COTE d'AZUR.
  WE'LL WANDER THE GARDENS
 OF A 19th-CENTURY VILLA,
  ZIP UP THE CORNICHE
  TO SEE A TROPHY
 OF THE CONQUERING ROMANS,
  REFLECT ON THE LIGHT AND COLOR
 OF MODERN MASTERS,
  GO POSH WITH THE GLAMOUR SET,
  RELAX IN ANTIBES
  AND THEN FEAST
 ON BOUILLABAISSE.
  WHEN EUROPE HEADS
 FOR THE BEACH,
  IT OFTEN ENDS UP
 ON THE SOUTH COAST OF FRANCE,
  THE COTE d'AZUR.
  WE'LL START IN NICE,
  CHECK OUT VILLEFRANCHE
 AND CAP FERRAT,
  RACE OVER TO MONACO,
  VISIT CANNES
  AND FINISH IN ANTIBES.
IN THE 19th CENTURY, ARISTOCRATS
FROM LONDON TO MOSCOW
FLOCKED TO FRANCE'S SUNNY
COTE d'AZUR, OR BLUE COAST.
MUCH LOVED FOR ITS BLUE SEAS
AND BLUE SKIES,
THIS WAS  THE PLACE
FOR NORTHERN EUROPEANS
TO SOCIALIZE, GAMBLE
AND ESCAPE THEIR DREARY WEATHER.
 WHETHER YOU'RE RICH
 OR NOT, NICE,
WITH ITS ETERNALLY ENTERTAINING
 SEAFRONT PROMENADE
 AND FINE MUSEUMS,
 IS THE ENJOYABLE
 BIG-CITY HIGHLIGHT
 OF THE RIVIERA.
 IN ITS TRAFFIC-FREE OLD CITY,
 ITALIAN AND FRENCH FLAVORS MIX
 TO CREATE A SPICY
 MEDITERRANEAN DRESSING.
NICE MAY BE NICE,
 BUT IT'S HOT AND JAMMED
 IN JULY AND AUGUST.
 WE'RE HERE IN EARLY JUNE,
 BEATING THE SERIOUS HEAT
 AND CROWDS.
 THE BROAD
 PROMENADE des ANGLAIS,
 LITERALLY, THE "WALKWAY
 OF THE ENGLISH,"
 WAS PAVED IN MARBLE
 FOR BLUE-BLOODED 19th-CENTURY
 ENGLISH TOURISTS
 WHO WANTED A SAFE PLACE
 TO STROLL AND ADMIRE THE VIEW
 WITHOUT GETTING
 THEIR SHOES DIRTY
 OR SMELLING THAT FISHY GRAVEL.
 TODAY, IT'S A FUN
 PEOPLE'S SCENE
 WITH A BIKE
 AND ROLLER BLADE PATH
 THAT LEADS ALL THE WAY
 TO THE AIRPORT.
 THE BEACH, WHILE PEBBLY,
 IS POPULAR.
 WHETHER YOU'RE LOOKING
 FOR AN ADRENALINE RUSH
OR JUST WORKING ON YOUR SUNTAN,
 THIS BEACH HAS IT ALL.
 TAN LINES CAN BE HARD TO FIND
 AS EUROPEANS ARE RELAXED
 ABOUT TOPLESS SUNBATHING.
 WHILE MAJOR STRETCHES
 OF THE BEACH ARE PUBLIC,
 MUCH OF IT IS PRIVATE,
 WHERE YOU PAY TO RENT A SPOT,
 COMPLETE WITH MATTRESS,
 LOUNGE CHAIR AND UMBRELLA.
 FOR A PARTICULARLY
 SCENIC LUNCH,
 YOU CAN EAT ON THE BEACH.
 I'M HAVING A salade niçoise,
  THE HEARTY LOCAL STANDARD
 WITH ANCHOVIES, TUNA,
 HARD-BOILED EGGS
 AND TASTY LITTLE
  niçoise OLIVES.
 GRACEFUL BUILDINGS FROM
 THE TURN OF THE LAST CENTURY
 LEAD IN FROM THE BEACH,
 REMINDERS OF THE Belle Epoque,
LITERALLY, "THE BEAUTIFUL AGE,"
 WHEN THE WORLD SEEMED TO
 REVOLVE AROUND THE UPPER CLASS
 AND INDULGENCE WITH ABANDON
 WAS A LIFE-STYLE.
 NICE'S GRAND OPERA HOUSE
 ILLUSTRATES THE BEAUTIFUL
 EXTRAVAGANCE OF THIS ERA.
 IMAGINE THIS OPULENT JEWEL
 BURIED DEEP IN THE OLD TOWN
 OF NICE WAY BACK THEN.
 WITH EUROPE'S ELITE
 WINTERING HERE,
 THE ROUGH-EDGED TOWN NEEDED
 SOME HIGH-CLASS ENTERTAINMENT.
 A PRIME EXAMPLE
 OF Belle Epoque LUXURY
 IS THE MAJESTIC
 HOTEL NEGRESCO.
 IT OFFERS SOME OF THE CITY'S
 MOST EXPENSIVE BEDS
 AND A CHANCE TO STEP BACK
 INTO THAT AGE
 OF EXTREME REFINEMENT.
 THE EXQUISITE ROYAL SALON
 COMBINES Belle Epoque GRACE
 WITH ENGINEERING BY THE GREAT
 FRENCH ARCHITECT GUSTAV EIFFEL.
 THE CHANDELIER IS MADE
 OF 16,000 PIECES OF CRYSTAL.
 IT WAS BUILT IN FRANCE FOR THE
 RUSSIAN CZAR'S MOSCOW PALACE;
 BUT, BECAUSE OF THE BOLSHEVIK
 REVOLUTION,
 HE COULDN'T TAKE DELIVERY.
 MANY OF NICE'S EARLY VISITORS
 WERE RUSSIANS,
AND THE CITY'S RUSSIAN ORTHODOX
 CHURCH CLAIMS TO BE THE FINEST
 THIS SIDE OF THE VOLGA.
FIVE HUNDRED RICH RUSSIAN
FAMILIES WINTERED IN NICE
AND NEEDED A WORTHY
ORTHODOX HOUSE OF WORSHIP.
CZAR NICHOLAS THE SECOND
GAVE THIS CHURCH
TO THE RUSSIAN COMMUNITY HERE
IN 1912.
A FEW YEARS LATER,
RUSSIAN COMRADES,
WHO DIDN'T WINTER
ON THE RIVIERA, SHOT HIM.
 HERE IN THE LAND
 OF OLIVES AND ANCHOVIES,
 THE CHURCH'S PROUD ONION DOMES
 SEEM OUT OF PLACE.
 BUT, I IMAGINE,
 SO DID THOSE RUSSIANS.
[ Orthodox choir singing ]
 THE INTERIOR IS FILLED
 WITH ICONS AND CANDLES.
 THE ICON WALL
 DIVIDES THE TEMPORAL WORLD
 OF THE WORSHIPPERS
 FROM THE SPIRITUAL WORLD
 BEHIND IT.
 THE ANGEL, WITH RED BOOTS
 AND WINGS,
 IS THE PROTECTOR OF RUSSIA'S
 RULING ROMANOV FAMILY.
 THE HAMMERED-COPPER CROSS
 COMMEMORATES THE MASSACRE
 OF THE CZAR AND HIS FAMILY
 IN 1918.
 THE ICON OF THE VIRGIN
 AND CHILD
 IS DECORATED WITH SILVER
 AND SEMI-PRECIOUS STONES.
 A PRIEST HERE TOLD ME THAT,
 AS THE WORSHIPPER MEDITATES,
 STARING DEEP INTO THE EYES
 OF AN ICON,
 HE ENTERS A LAKE,
 WHERE HE FINDS HIS SOUL.
 NICE WAS BORN
 ON ITS EASY-TO-FORTIFY HILL.
 FROM THERE,
 AND INLAND FROM THE BEACH,
 SPREADS ITS COLORFUL
 OLD TOWN.
 THE OLD TOWN SQUARES FEEL MORE
 ITALIAN THAN FRENCH BECAUSE,
 UNTIL 1860, NICE WAS RULED
 BY AN ITALIAN KING.
UNTIL THE MID-1800s, THE PEOPLE
 HERE SPOKE AN ITALIAN DIALECT.
 STREET SIGNS ARE STILL
 IN TWO LANGUAGES
 AND PASTA IS STILL
 A FAVORITE.
 NICE'S ITALIAN RULERS LIVED
 IN THIS PALACE.
AS THE MODERN NATION OF ITALY
WAS BEING CREATED,
THIS REGION WAS GIVEN A CHOICE:
JOIN THE CHAOTIC NEW COUNTRY
OF ITALY,
OR JOIN WEALTHY FRANCE,
WHICH WAS ENJOYING GOOD TIMES
UNDER THE RULE
OF NAPOLEON THE THIRD.
THE VAST MAJORITY OF THE PEOPLE
VOTED TO GO FRENCH, AND voilà.
 THE OLD TOWN OFFERS
 A CULTURAL SCAVENGER HUNT
 OF OPPORTUNITIES.
FROM ITS MEDIEVAL MARKET SQUARE
 WITH FRESH SEASONAL PRODUCE,
 TO A PASTA SHOP SHOWING NICE'S
 ITALIAN ROOTS,
 TO THE NEARBY
 PATISSERIE AUER.
 ITS Belle Epoque STOREFRONT
 BRAGS THAT IT'S BEEN RUN
 FROM FATHER TO SON SINCE 1820.
 QUEEN VICTORIA SATISFIED
 HER SWEET TOOTH RIGHT HERE.
 Socca, A THIN CHICKPEA CREPE,
 SEASONED WITH PEPPER
 AND OLIVE OIL,
 IS A PEASANT'S STAPLE
 PREDATING TOURISM
 THAT'S STILL DEAR
 TO LOCAL HEARTS.
 AT THIS BUSY STAND, THE socca
 ARRIVES BY MOTOR BIKE,
 HOT OUT OF THE OVEN, AND IT'S
 SOLD AND GOBBLED UP
 AS QUICKLY
 AS THEY CAN SLICE IT.
 FLOWERS SEEM TO GROW
 EFFORTLESSLY AND EVERYWHERE
 IN THIS IDEAL CLIMATE.
 THIS HAS LONG BEEN
 THE RIVIERA'S
 BIGGEST FLOWER MARKET.
 FRESH FLOWERS ARE A FINE VALUE
 IN THIS OTHERWISE PRICEY CITY.
 AND WITH SUCH AN ABUNDANCE
 OF FLOWERS,
 IT'S NO WONDER PERFUME
 IS A LOCAL INDUSTRY.
 THE MOLINARD FAMILY
 HAS BEEN MAKING PERFUME
 FROM COTE d'AZUR FLOWERS
 FOR A CENTURY.
 PERFUME IS DISTILLED
 LIKE COGNAC
 AND THEN AGED LIKE WINE.
 IT TAKES MORE THAN 400 POUNDS
 OF LAVENDER
 TO PRODUCE JUST ONE QUART
 OF PURE ESSENCE.
 FOR THE FRENCH,
 FINDING JUST THE RIGHT PERFUME
 IS A PERSONAL QUEST.
BECAUSE SO MANY GREAT
20th-CENTURY ARTISTS
CHOSE TO LIVE AND WORK HERE,
THE RIVIERA IS STUDDED
WITH WORLD-CLASS
MODERN ART MUSEUMS.
HENRI MATISSE, MARC CHAGALL,
PABLO PICASSO AND MANY OTHERS
RAVED ABOUT THE REGION'S LIGHT
AND VIVID COLORS.
THEY WERE CHARMED
BY THE SIMPLE LIFE-STYLES
OF FISHERMEN AND VILLAGERS.
 THE ARTISTS' COLORFUL
 AND SEMI-ABSTRACT WORKS
 REFLECT THE SLEEPY,
 MORE DREAMY RIVIERA
BEFORE ALL THE DEVELOPMENT HIT.
 THEY SETTLED HERE IN THE SUN
 AND PAINTED
 WITH WIDE-EYED WONDER.
 THE MATISSE MUSEUM OFFERS
 A FASCINATING INTRODUCTION
 TO MODERN ART INSPIRED
 BY THE FRENCH RIVIERA.
 HENRI MATISSE OPENED A WINDOW
 ONTO PARADISE.
 ARMED WITH THE BRIGHT COLORS
 OF THE IMPRESSIONISTS,
 MATISSE CAPTURED THE RADIANT
 RIVIERA OF THE 1920s:
 SEASCAPES, FRUIT, FLOWERS
 AND CURVACEOUS WOMEN.
 MATISSE WAS THE MASTER
 OF LEAVING THINGS OUT,
 LETTING US FILL IN THE REST.
 MATISSE PAINTED
 THE THREE-DIMENSIONAL WORLD
 AS A TWO-DIMENSIONAL PATTERN
 OF VIBRANT COLORS.
 YOU DON'T LOOK THROUGH MATISSE
 ART LIKE A WINDOW;
 YOU LOOK AT IT.
 YOU CAN TRACE HIS WORK
 AS IT EVOLVES.
 IT BECAME SIMPLER WITH TIME,
 FROM DETAILED REALISM,
 TO A COLORFUL
 IMPRESSIONISTIC STYLE,
 TO BOLD BLOCKS
 OF BRIGHT COLORS,
 TO EVER SIMPLER FORMS,
 PARING IMAGES DOWN
 TO TWO BASIC ELEMENTS:
 LINE AND COLOR.
 HIS SERIES CALLED JAZZ,
 LIKE THE MUSIC,
CELEBRATES ARTISTIC SPONTANEITY
 AND THE OTHERWORLDLY BEAUTY
 THAT ART CAN CREATE.
MATISSE ENJOYED A LONG
AND CONTINUALLY EVOLVING CAREER.
IN HIS 70s, FIGHTING CANCER
AND CONFINED TO A WHEELCHAIR,
HE TRADED EASEL PAINTING
FOR A NEW MEDIUM:
PAPER CUT-OUTS.
THE CUT-OUTS ARE A SINGLE COLOR
 WITH A STRONG OUTLINE.
 SCISSORS IN HAND,
 MATISSE SAID,
 "I CUT STRAIGHT
 INTO THE COLOR."
 THE CHAGALL MUSEUM IS NEARBY.
 STARTING IN THE 1950s,
 MARC CHAGALL PAINTED
 A CYCLE OF CANVASSES
 DESIGNED FOR THIS BUILDING.
 EVEN IF YOU'RE SUSPICIOUS
 OF MODERN ART, THIS MUSEUM,
 WITH THE LARGEST COLLECTION
 OF CHAGALL'S WORK IN CAPTIVITY,
 IS A DELIGHT.
 SEVENTEEN BIBLICAL SCENES
 MAKE UP THE NAVE, OR CORE,
 OF WHAT CHAGALL CALLED
 "THE HOUSE OF BROTHERHOOD."
 EACH PAINTING IS
 A LIGHTER-THAN-AIR COLLAGE
OF IMAGES INSPIRED BY CHAGALL'S
 RUSSIAN FOLK VILLAGE YOUTH,
 HIS JEWISH HERITAGE,
 BIBLICAL THEMES AND HIS FEELING
 THAT HE EXISTED SOMEWHERE
 BETWEEN HEAVEN AND EARTH.
 CHAGALL PAINTS A WORLD
 THAT'S HIDDEN TO THE EYE:
 THE MAGICAL, MYSTICAL WORLD
 BELOW THE SURFACE.
 HE BLENDS PERSONAL IMAGERY,
PARTICULARLY FROM HIS CHILDHOOD
 IN RUSSIA;
 THE HASIDIC JEWISH PERSPECTIVE
 HE ABSORBED AS A CHILD --
 THAT'S THE IDEA
 THAT GOD'S EVERYWHERE,
 IN NATURE, ANIMALS
 AND EVERYDAY THINGS;
 GRAVITY-DEFYING COMPOSITIONS,
WITH LOVERS, ANIMALS AND ANGELS
 TWIRLING BLISSFULLY IN MIDAIR;
 AND CHILDLIKE SIMPLICITY --
 SIMPLE, HEAVY OUTLINES,
 OFTEN SPILLING OVER
 WITH CRAYOLA COLORS.
 CHAGALL SAW THE BIBLE
 AS A SYNONYM FOR NATURE.
 HIS BRILLIANT BLUES AND REDS
 CELEBRATE NATURE
 AND ITS CREATOR.
 HIS COUPLES ARE ENCHANTING.
 TO CHAGALL,
 HUMANS LOVING EACH OTHER
 MIRRORED GOD'S LOVE
 OF CREATION.
 HE WROTE, "IN ART
 AS WELL AS IN LIFE,
 ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE,
 PROVIDED THERE IS LOVE."
 THE SNUG PORT OF VILLEFRANCHE,
 IN SPITE OF THE LUXURY YACHTS
 GLISTENING IN ITS BAY,
 OFFERS TRAVELERS
 AN EASYGOING SLICE
 OF SMALL-TOWN
 MEDITERRANEAN LIFE
 JUST MINUTES FROM THE BUSTLE
 OF NICE AND JET-SETTY MONACO.
 THIS TOWN FEELS ITALIAN,
 WITH SOFT ORANGE BUILDINGS,
 STEEP, NARROW STREETS
 AND ITS PASTEL HARBOR.
WHEN THE ORIGINAL ANCIENT PORT
WAS OVERTAKEN BY PIRATES,
ITS VILLAGERS
FLED INTO THE HILLS.
LATER, IN THE 13th CENTURY,
THE KING WANTED TO REINHABIT
AND THEREFORE
STRENGTHEN HIS COASTLINE.
TO ENCOURAGE THE VILLAGERS,
HE GRANTED THE TOWN TAX-FREE
STATUS AND THIS PLACE BECAME
"VILLE," TOWN,
"FRANCHE," WITHOUT TAXES...
VILLEFRANCHE.
 VILLEFRANCHE WAS PROTECTED
 BY AN IMMENSE CITADEL.
 TODAY, BECAUSE MOST
 OF ITS 8,000 PEOPLE CALL THIS
 THEIR PRIMARY RESIDENCE,
 VILLEFRANCHE FEELS MORE
 LIKE A REAL COMMUNITY
THAN NEIGHBORING RIVIERA TOWNS.
 ONLY A FEW FAMILIES
 STILL FISH FOR A LIVING.
 BUT HUGE YACHTS
 CALL THIS BAY HOME.
 THIS STRETCH OF COAST
 IS STUDDED WITH THE FLOATING
 TOYS OF MULTIMILLIONAIRES.
 LOCALS KEEP TRACK
 OF THE WORLD'S BIGGEST YACHTS
 AND TALK ABOUT THEM
 LIKE THEY'RE PART
 OF THE NEIGHBORHOOD.
YOU NEVER KNOW WHOSE STERN LINE
 YOU MAY BE CATCHING.
 HERE'S THE LADY MOURA.
 MOURA IS AN EX-WIFE
 OF SAUDI ARABIA'S KING FAHD.
 SOME OF THE RIVIERA'S
 PRICIEST REAL ESTATE
 STRETCHES FROM VILLEFRANCHE
 TO MONACO.
 CAP FERRAT,
 AN EXTREMELY EXCLUSIVE,
 LARGELY RESIDENTIAL COMMUNITY,
 FILLS A PARK-LIKE PENINSULA.
 WHILE YOU'LL NEVER GET PAST
 ANY OF THESE GATES,
 YOU CAN SPEND A DELIGHTFUL DAY
 HERE JUST STROLLING,
 AND THIS AIN'T YOUR AVERAGE
 JOGGING TRAIL.
 FOLLOWING ITS
 WELL-GROOMED PATH,
 YOU CAN STUMBLE
 UPON A HIDDEN LITTLE BEACH...
 GET A GLIMPSE
 OF DAVID NIVEN'S HOME...
 WANDER THE RITZY PORT
 OF ST. JEAN-CAP-FERRAT,
 AND TOUR THE ULTIMATE
 RIVIERA MANSION AND GARDENS:
 THE ROTHSCHILD EPHRUSSI VILLA.
 THE EXTRAVAGANCE OF VENICE,
 VERSAILLES AND THE COTE d'AZUR
 ALL COME TOGETHER
 IN THIS VILLA.
 ITS LAVISH Belle Epoque
 INTERIOR OFFERS A PEEK
 INTO THE LIFE OF THE RICH
 AND ECCENTRIC
 BARONESS de ROTHSCHILD.
 BUILDING THIS PALACE,
 THE BARONESS
 WENT THROUGH TEN ARCHITECTS.
 HER FURNISHINGS
 WERE FIT FOR A QUEEN.
 IMAGINE THE CORRESPONDENCE
 COMPOSED
 AT HER PERSONAL
 LETTER-WRITING DESK.
 LADY ROTHSCHILD'S
 SENSE OF STYLE
 SPILLED INTO HER BACKYARD,
 A MANY-FACETED GARDEN.
 SHE DREW INSPIRATION
 FROM HER TRAVELS ABROAD:
A FRAGRANT ENGLISH ROSE GARDEN,
 AN EXOTIC FANTASY OF CACTUS,
 A MYSTERIOUS GOTHIC
 STONE GARDEN,
AND A TRANQUIL JAPANESE GARDEN.
 OVERLOOKING EVERYTHING:
 "THE TEMPLE OF LOVE."
 THIS REGION'S
 BREATHTAKING COASTLINE
 IS TRAVERSED
 BY THREE COASTAL ROUTES:
 THE LOW, MIDDLE
 AND HIGH CORNICHE.
THE LOW CORNICHE STRINGS PORTS,
 BEACHES AND VILLAGES TOGETHER.
 IT WAS BUILT IN THE 1860s,
 ALONG WITH THE TRAIN LINE,
 TO BRING PEOPLE TO THE CASINO
 IN NEARBY MONTE CARLO.
 THE MIDDLE CORNICHE COMES
 WITH VIEWS OF IMPRESSIVE VILLAS
 AND THE GRAND CORNICHE
 CAPS THE CLIFFS
 WITH STAGGERING
 MEDITERRANEAN VISTAS.
 WHILE HAILED AS NAPOLEON'S
 CROWNING ROAD CONSTRUCTION
 ACHIEVEMENT,
 IT ACTUALLY SITS
 UPON THE VIA AURELIA,
 A ROAD BUILT
 BY THE ANCIENT ROMANS
 AS THEY CONQUERED THE WEST.
 A TOWERING ROMAN RUIN
 CELEBRATES THAT CONQUEST.
 CAESAR AUGUSTUS BUILT
 "THE TROPHY OF THE ALPES"
 TO COMMEMORATE HIS DEFEAT
 OF THE REGION'S
 MANY HOSTILE TRIBES.
WITH THIS VICTORY, THE
COMPLETION OF THE MAIN ARTERY
CONNECTING ITALY AND SPAIN
WAS MADE POSSIBLE.
THIS OPENED THE WAY
FOR THE CONTINUED EXPANSION
OF THE ROMAN EMPIRE.
 THE INSCRIPTION
 TELLS THE STORY:
 IT WAS ERECTED BY THE SENATE
 AND THE PEOPLE
 TO HONOR THE EMPEROR.
CARVED BELOW IS AN INVENTORY OF
 ALL THE FEISTY BARBARIAN TRIBES
 THAT PUT UP SUCH A FIGHT.
 AND ON EITHER SIDE
 ARE THE VANQUISHED IN CHAINS
AT THE FEET OF THEIR CONQUEROR,
 A REMINDER TO ANY WHO WOULD
 CHALLENGE THE EMPIRE.
 NEARBY, STANDING HIGH
 ABOVE THE SEA,
 IS TOURISTY
 BUT MAGNIFICENT EZE.
 THE ONCE-FORMIDABLE TOWN GATE,
 DESIGNED TO KEEP
 RAMPAGING PIRATES OUT,
 LEADS INTO THE MEDIEVAL
 VILLAGE.
 THIS SELF-PROCLAIMED VILLAGE
 OF ART AND gastronomie
 MIXES PERFUME OUTLETS, UPSCALE
 BOUTIQUES, COBBLED LANES
 AND SCENIC PERCHES
 PERFECT FOR SAVORING A DRINK.
 THE MORE ADVENTUROUS
 CAN CLIMB EVEN FURTHER UP
 TO THE SCANT RUINS
 OF THE EZE CHATEAU.
 THE PATHS LEADING THERE
 HOST A PRICKLY FESTIVAL
 OF OVER A HUNDRED VARIETIES
 OF CACTI.
 LOOKING BEYOND THE FLOWERS,
 YOU'LL ENJOY A COMMANDING
 RIVIERA VIEW.
 JUST BELOW SITS MONACO.
 WITH BARELY ONE SQUARE MILE
 OF TERRITORY,
 IT'S ONE OF THE WORLD'S
 SMALLEST COUNTRIES.
 OF ITS 30,000 RESIDENTS,
 LESS THAN 10,000
 ARE TRUE monegasques,
 AS LOCALS ARE CALLED.
 MANY OF THE REST
 CALL MONACO HOME
 BECAUSE THERE'S NO INCOME TAX.
 DESPITE OVERDEVELOPMENT, HIGH
 PRICES AND MOBS OF TOURISTS,
A VISIT HERE IS A RIVIERA MUST.
 AND MONACO IS A WORK
 IN PROGRESS.
 THE DISTRICT OF FONTVIEILLE
 WAS RECLAIMED FROM THE SEA.
 IT BRISTLES WITH LUXURY
 HIGH-RISE CONDOS.
THE NEW BREAKWATER, CONSTRUCTED
 ELSEWHERE AND TOWED IN,
 ENABLES CRUISE SHIPS TO DOCK.
 AND CARS STILL RACE,
 AS THEY HAVE SINCE 1929,
 AROUND THE PRINCIPALITY
 IN ONE OF THE WORLD'S
 MOST FAMOUS AUTO RACES,
 THE GRAND PRIX OF MONACO.
THE MINISCULE PRINCIPALITY
HAS ALWAYS BEEN TINY,
BUT IT USED TO BE LESS TINY.
IN THE 1860s, IT LOST MOST
OF ITS TERRITORY TO FRANCE.
BUT THE PRINCE BUILT A CASINO
AND MANAGED TO CONNECT
HIS DOMAIN TO THE REST
OF THE RIVIERA
WITH A NEW ROAD
AND A TRAIN LINE.
 HUMBLE MONACO WAS SUDDENLY
 ON THE GRAND TOUR MAP,
THE PLACE FOR THE VACATIONING
 ARISTOCRACY TO PLAY.
 TODAY, THE PEOPLE OF MONACO
 HAVE ABOUT THE WORLD'S HIGHEST
 PER CAPITA INCOME,
 WITH PLUSH APARTMENTS TO MATCH.
 ITS FAMOUS CASINO
 ALLOWS THE WEALTHY
 TO ENJOY LOSING MONEY
 IN EXTREME COMFORT.
IF MONACO IS A BUSINESS,
THE PRINCE IS ITS CEO.
WHILE THE CASINO GENERATES
ONLY A SMALL PART
OF THE STATE'S REVENUE,
ITS MANY BANKS, WHICH PROVIDE
AN ATTRACTIVE WAY TO PROTECT
YOUR MONEY FROM THE TAX MAN,
EARN MUCH MORE.
THERE IS NO INCOME TAX HERE,
BUT THE PRINCE COLLECTS
PLENTY OF MONEY IN VALUE-ADDED
TAXES, REAL ESTATE TAXES
AND CORPORATE TAXES.
 NEARLY ALL OF MONACO'S SIGHTS
 ARE PACKED
 IN A CINDERELLA NEIGHBORHOOD
 ATOP ITS FORTIFIED HILL.
 ITS IMPRESSIVE AQUARIUM,
 WHICH PROUDLY CROWNS THE CLIFF
 LIKE A PALACE,
 WAS DIRECTED BY JACQUES
 COUSTEAU FOR 17 YEARS.
 A MEDIEVAL CASTLE SAT WHERE
 MONACO'S PALACE SITS TODAY.
 THE PALACE GUARDS PROTECT
 THE RULING GRIMALDI FAMILY 24/7
 AND THEY CHANGE
 WITH THE PAGEANTRY
 OF AN IMPORTANT NATION.
 EVERY DAY AT ABOUT NOON,
 TOURISTS PACK THE SQUARE
 TO WITNESS THE SPECTACLE.
[ Marching music playing ]
 THE PALACE SQUARE FEATURES
 A STATUE OF FRANCOIS GRIMALDI,
 A RENEGADE ITALIAN
 WHO CAPTURED MONACO
 DISGUISED AS A MONK IN 1297.
THIS FIRST RULER OF MONACO
ESTABLISHED THE DYNASTY
THAT STILL RULES
THE PRINCIPALITY.
TODAY, OVER 700 YEARS LATER,
THE CURRENT PRINCE
IS HIS DIRECT DESCENDANT.
 MONACO'S CATHEDRAL
 HOLDS THE TOMBS
 OF CENTURIES OF GRIMALDIS,
 THE MOST-VISITED ONE:
 THAT OF PRINCESS GRACE.
THE GLAMOROUS ROMANCE
AND MARRIAGE
OF THE AMERICAN ACTRESS
GRACE KELLY TO PRINCE RAINIER
ADDED TO MONACO'S
FAIRY-TALE MYSTIQUE.
GRACE KELLY CAME TO MONACO
IN THE 1950s TO STAR IN A MOVIE.
SHE FELL IN LOVE
WITH THE PRINCE,
MARRIED HIM
AND ADOPTED THE COUNTRY.
TRAGICALLY, MONACO'S MUCH-LOVED
PRINCESS GRACE
DIED IN A CAR ACCIDENT
ON THE CORNICHE IN 1982.
 EXPLORING THE RIVIERA
 BY TRAIN IS FASTER,
 LESS EXPENSIVE AND SAFER
 THAN BY CAR.
 WHILE TRAFFIC IS EXASPERATING
 AND PARKING IS COSTLY,
 THE REGION SEEMS DESIGNED
 TO BE EXPLORED BY TRAIN,
 FREQUENT TRAINS LINKING NEARLY
 EVERYTHING WE'RE SEEING
 IN A SCENIC SNAP.
 WE'RE CONNECTING THE EAST
 AND WEST EXTREMES OF OUR VISIT,
 MONACO AND CANNES,
 IN JUST OVER AN HOUR.
 CANNES IS FAMOUS FOR ITS
 INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL.
 ITS SISTER CITY, NOT
 SURPRISINGLY, IS BEVERLY HILLS.
THIS CITY HAS HOSTED
THE FAMOUS CANNES FILM FESTIVAL
ANNUALLY SINCE 1946.
EACH MAY, AS THE WORLD LOOKS ON,
THE CITY'S PACKED
WITH FILM PRODUCERS,
CELEBRITIES AND PAPARAZZI.
 WITH EXCLUSIVE HOTELS LINING
 MOSTLY PRIVATE STRETCHES
 OF SANDY BEACH,
 CANNES IS FOR STROLLING,
 DREAMING OF MEETING
 A MOVIE STAR
 AND LOUNGING ON THE SEAFRONT.
 DON'T LOOK FOR ANY
 ACTUAL SIGHTS TO TOUR.
 IF YOU MISSED
 THE FILM FESTIVAL,
 THERE'S LITTLE TO DO
 OTHER THAN SHOP...
 AND ENJOY THE BEACH.
 WHILE THERE IS A PUBLIC BEACH,
 THE MAJORITY OF ITS BEACHES
 COME WITH A FEE.
 THE REAL CANNES EXPERIENCE
 SEEMS TO BE PAYING TO SUNBATHE
 WITHOUT COMMONERS
 MUCKING UP YOUR SPACE.
 WHILE THOSE ENAMORED
 WITH LIFE-STYLES
 OF THE RICH AND FAMOUS
 FLOCK TO RESORTS LIKE CANNES
 OR THE INSUFFERABLY CHIC
 SAINT TROPEZ,
 I PREFER ANTIBES.
 NESTLED BETWEEN NICE
 AND CANNES,
 ANTIBES HAS A DOWN-TO-EARTH
 AMBIANCE RARE FOR THIS AREA.
 ITS OLD-TOWN CHARMS
 ARE WRAPPED IN A RAMPART
 AND WATCHED OVER
 BY TWIN MEDIEVAL TOWERS.
ANTIBES WAS "DISCOVERED"
AFTER WORLD WAR I.
IT ENJOYED A PARTICULARLY
ROARING '20s,
WITH THE HELP OF PARTY ANIMALS
LIKE RUDOLF VALENTINO
AND THE ROWDY, YET EVER-SILENT
CHARLIE CHAPLIN.
THEY SAY FUN SEEKERS
EVEN INVENTED WATER-SKIING
RIGHT HERE IN THE 1920s.
 BEFORE 1860, WHEN NICE
 WAS UNDER ITALIAN RULE,
 ANTIBES WAS FRANCE'S LAST FORT
 BEFORE THE ITALIAN BORDER.
 THE FRENCH KING MADE SURE
 THE RAMPARTS
 WERE STRONG AND WELL-DEFENDED.
 TODAY, THE FORT PROTECTS
 A PRICELESS COLLECTION
 OF PICASSOS.
IN 1946, 65-YEAR-OLD
PABLO PICASSO WAS REBORN.
WORLD WAR II WAS OVER
AND PICASSO COULD FINALLY ESCAPE
THE GRAY SKIES AND GRAY UNIFORMS
OF NAZI-OCCUPIED PARIS.
ENJOYING WORLDWIDE FAME
AND THE LOVE OF 23-YEAR-OLD
FRANCOISE GILOT,
PICASSO MOVED TO ANTIBES.
HE LIVED AND WORKED IN THIS
CASTLE AND ON THIS TERRACE.
HE PAINTED LIKE A MADMAN,
SWAM IN THE MEDITERRANEAN
IN THE MORNING,
PARTIED WITH HIS FRIENDS
IN THE EVENING
AND PAINTED AGAIN
LATE INTO THE NIGHT.
 EVER RESTLESS,
 PICASSO HAD FINALLY FOUND
 HIS GARDEN OF EDEN,
 HIS JOY OF LIFE,
 AND HE PAINTED IT.
 IN HIS JOIE DE VIVRE,
 WE SEE HIS FLOWER CHILD,
 FRANCOISE.
 SHE KICKS UP HER HEELS AND
 DANCES ACROSS A RIVIERA BEACH.
 FLUTE-PLAYING SATYRS,
 CENTAURS AND FAUNS
 ANNOUNCE THE NEWFOUND FREEDOM
 OF A NEWLY LIBERATED FRANCE
AND A NEWLY LIBERATED PICASSO.
 AFTER DECADES IN THE CITY,
 PICASSO REDISCOVERED THE JOYS
 OF VILLAGE LIFE.
SHOPPING IN THE ANTIBES MARKET,
 HE'D RETURN HOME AND TURN
 GROCERIES INTO MASTERPIECES.
WITH HIS DISTINCT CUBIST STYLE,
 HE CAPTURED SUNBATHERS
 AND MUNCHING LOCALS.
 HE WAS FASCINATED WITH
 THE SIMPLE LIFE OF FISHERMEN.
 PICASSO PAINTED
 A PAGAN PARADISE,
 WHERE CIVILIZED PEOPLE
 COULD LET THEIR HAIR DOWN
 AND INDULGE IN SIMPLE,
 ANIMAL PLEASURES.
 FOR AN EDIBLE JOIE DE VIVRE,
 WE'RE FINISHING BACK
 IN VILLEFRANCHE
 WITH BOUILLABAISSE,
 THE RIVIERA'S MOST FAMOUS DISH.
 THIS SPICY FISH STEW
 IS BASED ON RECIPES
 HANDED DOWN FROM SAILORS
 IN NEARBY MARSEILLE.
 A TRUE BOUILLABAISSE
 MUST CONTAIN
 AT LEAST FOUR TYPES
 OF FRESH FISH,
 THOUGH MOST HAVE MORE.
 THE FISH IS COOKED
 IN A TOMATO-BASED STOCK,
 FLAVORED WITH SAFFRON
 AND WHITE WINE.
 THE BOUILLABAISSE IS TOPPED
 WITH A DOLLOP OF GARLICKY SAUCE
 AND CRUNCHY CROUTONS.
 TRAVEL, LIKE A FINE
 BOUILLABAISSE,
 IS THE HAPPY RESULT OF GOOD
 THINGS COMING TOGETHER.
 FOR THE FRENCH RIVIERA,
 TAKE A VARIETY OF BEACH TOWNS,
 SPICE WITH MODERN ART,
 TOSS IN A PINCH OF HISTORY,
 SPRINKLE IN SOME GLAMOUR
 AND LET SIMMER
 UNDER THE MEDITERRANEAN SUN.
ALL THESE TASTY EXPERIENCES
COMING TOGETHER
MAKE THE COTE d'AZUR
A CORNER OF FRANCE
ANY TRAVELER CAN ENJOY.
I'M RICK STEVES.
UNTIL NEXT TIME,
KEEP ON TRAVELIN'.
