Clothing in ancient Greece primarily consisted
of the chiton, peplos, himation, and chlamys.
Ancient Greek men and women typically wore
two pieces of clothing draped about the body:
an undergarment (chiton or peplos) and a cloak
(himation or chlamys).
Ancient Greek clothing was mainly based on
necessity, function, materials, and protection
rather than identity.
Thus, clothes were quite simple, draped, loose-fitting
and free flowing.
Customarily, clothing was homemade and cut
to various lengths of rectangular linen or
wool fabric with minimal cutting or sewing,
and secured with ornamental clasps or pins,
and a belt, or girdle (zone).
Pieces were generally interchangeable between
men and women.
However, women usually wore their robes to
their ankles while men generally wore theirs
to their knees depending on the occasion and
circumstance.
While no clothes have survived from this period,
descriptions exist in contemporary accounts
and artistic depictions.
Clothes were mainly homemade and locally made
since trade with other cultures hadn't occurred
yet.
Additionally, clothing often served many purposes
(such as bedding).
All ancient Greek clothing was made out of
natural fibers.
Linen was the most common fabric due to the
hot climate which lasted most of the year.
On the rare occasion of colder weather, ancient
Greeks wore wool.
Common clothing of the time was plain white,
or neutral colored, sometimes incorporating
decorative borders.
There is evidence of elaborate design and
bright colors, but these were less common
among lower class citizens.
However, noble citizens wore bright colors
to express their wealth as dyed clothing was
more expensive.
The clothing for both men and women generally
consisted of two main parts: a tunic and a
cloak.
The Greeks had a great appreciation for the
human body, and it was shown in their fashion.
The fabric was expertly draped around the
body, and the cloth could be slightly transparent.
Males had no problem with nudity, while women
could only be naked in the public bath.
The Greeks also influence modern fashion quite
frequently, especially in todays globalized
world.
Modern big name brands such as Zuhair Murad,
Dolce and Gabbana, Gucci, Chanel, and Versace
have taken elements from Greek clothing for
their ready-to-wear and couture collections
today.
Most notably, Gianni Versace famously used
Ancient Greek inspiration and motifs in his
collection.
In fact, his entire branding is based on Greek
culture.
The logo for Versace is of the Ancient Greek
monster Medusa's head encircled in the traditional
meander pattern symbolizing eternity.
Dolce and Gabbana also did a collection inspired
by Greek temples and ruins.
Additionally, the notorious fashion house
Chanel devoted their entire Resort 2018 collection
to ancient Greece with references to ancient
clothing, gods/goddesses, architecture and
culture.
In addition to using Greek silhouettes and
clothing styles, Chanel staged the show in
ancient Greek ruins, providing a theatric
and refined experience for their audience.
Chanel’s creative director Karl Lagerfeld
is quoted by Vogue editor Luke Leitch, “The
criteria of beauty in Ancient then Classical
Greece still holds true.
There have never been more beautiful representations
of women.
Or more beautiful column.
The entire Renaissance, in fact, was based
on antiquity."
Unmistakably, the designer has an adoration
for ancient Greek culture as he implements
it in his personal designs and style.
It is quite evident that, the drapery, architecture,
and mythology from ancient Greece had a great
influence on fashion since then, and still
today.
== History and types ==
=== Chiton ===
The chiton was a simple tunic garment of lighter
linen and usually pleated that was worn by
both sexes and all ages.
It consisted of a wide, rectangular tube of
material secured along the shoulders and upper
arms by a series of fasteners.
Chitons typically fell to the ankles of the
wearer, but shorter chitons were sometimes
worn during vigorous activities by athletes,
warriors or slaves.Often excess fabric would
be pulled over a girdle, or belt, which was
fastened around the waist (see kolpos).
To deal with the bulk sometimes a strap, or
anamaschalister was worn around the neck,
brought under the armpits, crossed in the
back and tied in the front.
A himation, or cloak, could be worn over-top
of the chiton.
There are two types of chitons – Doric and
Ionic, named for their similarities to the
Doric and Ionic columns.
The Doric chiton is "sleeveless", as sleeve
technology had not really been created yet.
Much like that on the caryatid to the right,
the Doric chiton has a fold over at the top
or apoptygma, is attached with fibulae at
the shoulders, and is belted at the waist.
Unlike the Doric Chiton, the Ionic chiton
doesn't have an apoptygma, and is a long enough
rectangle of fabric that when folded in half
can complete a wingspan.
Before shaped sleeve patterns existed the
Greeks attached fibulae (ancient Greek safety
pins) all the way up both arms to join the
front and back top edges of the fabric.
The Ionic chiton was also belted at the waist.
The Doric chiton was usually made of linen
and the Ionic chiton was usually made of wool.
=== Peplos ===
A predecessor to the himation, the peplos
was a square piece of cloth that was originally
worn over the chiton by women.
The top third of the cloth was folded over
and pinned at both shoulders, leaving the
cloth open down one side.
This upper part of the peplos which is folded
down to the waist, forms an apotygma.
Sometimes the peplos was worn alone as an
alternative form of chiton.
As with the chiton, often a girdle or belt
would be used to fasten the folds at the waist.
=== Himation ===
The himation was a simple outer garment worn
over the peplos or chiton.
It consisted of a heavy rectangular material,
passing under the left arm and secured at
the right shoulder.
The cloak would be twisted around a strap
that also passed under the left arm and over
the right shoulder.
A more voluminous himation was worn in cold
weather.The himation could be pulled up over
the head to cover the wearer when they were
overcome by emotion or shame.
=== Chlamys ===
The chlamys was a seamless rectangle of woolen
material worn by men for military or hunting
purposes.
It was worn as a cloak and fastened at the
right shoulder with a brooch or button.
The chlamys was typical Greek military attire
from the 5th to the 3rd century BC.
=== Undergarments ===
Women often wore a strophion, the bra of the
time, under their garments and around the
mid-portion of their body.
The strophion was a wide band of wool or linen
wrapped across the breasts and tied between
the shoulder blades.
Women could also wear a shawl called an epiblema.
Men and women sometimes wore triangular loincloths,
called perizoma, as underwear.
=== Fasteners and buttons ===
Since clothing was rarely cut or sewn, fasteners
and buttons were often used to keep garments
in place.
Small buttons, pins and brooches were used.
Large pins, called peronai or fibulae, were
worn at the shoulders, facing down, to hold
the chiton or peplos in place.Belts, sashes,
or girdles were also worn at the waist sometimes
replacing fasteners/buttons.
=== Footwear ===
Women and men typically wore sandals, slippers,
soft shoes, or boots.
At home they usually went barefoot.
=== Jewelry ===
Ornamentation in the form of jewelry, elaborate
hairstyles and make-up was common for women.
Small gold ornaments would be sewn onto their
clothing and would glitter as they moved.
There is also evidence that the Greeks had
rings, wreaths, diadems, bracelets, armbands,
pins, pendants, necklaces, and earrings.
Popular earring designs included: flying gods
and goddesses, like Eros, Nike, and Ganymede.
Patterns such as the meander symbolizing eternity
was also commonly engraved into jewelry.
Gold and silver were the most common mediums
for jewelry, however jewelry from this time
could also have pearls, gems, and semiprecious
stones used as decoration.
Jewelry was commonly passed down from generation
to generation or made as an offering to the
gods.
== Fabrics ==
Ancient Greek clothing was made with silk,
linen and wool.
However, linen was the most common fiber due
to the hot climate.
The production of fabric was a long and tedious
process; making ready-made clothing was expensive.
It was socially accepted that textile making
was primarily women's responsibility, and
the production of high quality textiles was
regarded as an accomplishment for women of
high status.
The most expensive textile was finely woven
linen and very soft wool.
The linen was almost transparent, as the Greeks
had no problem showing off their body.
Less expensive and more commonly used was
the linen cloth woven from the flax plant
soaked in olive oil.
Peasants wore coarse wool.
Once made, the cloth was rarely cut.
The seamless rectangles of fabric were draped
on the body in various ways with little sewing
involved.
The fabric could be crinkled or pleated to
give the garment more fullness, as the more
fabric one wore, the wealthier they appeared.
Another way of showing wealth was to dye their
fabrics.
People used to think the Greeks wore only
white because the recovered statues from this
time showed white drapery.
However, they later discovered that the artwork
had probably been painted and that the garments
the Greeks wore were actually quite colorful.
Wealthy aristocrats had purple clothes as
purple dye was the most difficult to get.
Yellow was a common dye for the average citizen,
and warriors wore red- so as not to see blood
when wounded.
Peasants usually dyed their clothes greens,
browns, and grays as it was cheaper but mostly
stuck to whites and natural colors.
== See also ==
Biblical clothing
Clothing in ancient Rome
Clothing in the ancient world
Kausia
Petasos
== References ==
== External links ==
Ancient Greek Clothing
